
Bars, a centre-out band, an arc band and two circles, each marked with where solid black should fade to bare skin. Built for whip shading and smooth black-and-grey falloff.
Practice
“Shading” is really three skills: packing black solid, building a smooth gradient, and using that gradient to make a shape look round. These four sheets drill each one on its own before putting them together on simple forms, all sized for a standard 20 × 15 cm practice skin.

Bars, a centre-out band, an arc band and two circles, each marked with where solid black should fade to bare skin. Built for whip shading and smooth black-and-grey falloff.

Stippled reference shapes — a dense-to-sparse bar, a shaded sphere and an even 50% square — each beside an empty outline to reproduce. Copy the density, not the dots.

Squares in three sizes, a circle, a ring, a star, a crescent, a band with negative-space holes and a zig-zag band — all to pack solid black with no skin showing.

Sphere, cube, cylinder and cone, each with a light-direction arrow and a dashed line where the shadow begins. Shading that makes a shape look solid rather than flat.
Solid fill is the foundation of blackwork and of every gradient — a fade is just packing that thins out. Work in small, tight, overlapping passes rather than long strokes, and stop when the area is evenly black: overworking a patch is the habit to break now, before it ever reaches real skin. The solid fill drill adds negative-space holes, which teach you to pack right up to an edge without crossing it.
Whip shading builds a gradient with a short, pendulum-like stroke that flicks out at the end, so each pass lays down more ink where it starts than where it finishes. The gradient drill marks every bar at quarter points: aim for solid black at one end, a clear mid-grey at the halfway tick and bare skin at the other.
Stipple builds tone from dot density instead of ink saturation. Copy each reference on the dotwork drill into the empty outline beside it, working light to dark — you can always add dots, but you can’t take them away. The dot-spacing rows show what 1, 2 and 3 mm apart look like at true size. Then put it to work on our dotwork stencils.
The form shading drill gives you a sphere, cube, cylinder and cone, each with an arrow showing where the light comes from and dashed lines marking the shadow edges. Decide the light direction before you shade anything — most flat-looking tattoos are shaded as if the light came from everywhere at once.
See every drill on the tattoo practice sheets page, go back to the line practice sheets, or shade a real design from the tattoo practice stencils.